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Stop picking at your cuticles! 7 ways to keep your nails healthy and strong

"Healthy nails should be firm. They should not be soft. They should be shiny. They can have some lines in them, but they should generally be very smooth," says dermatologist Dr. Shari Lipner.
bee_photobee/ Getty Images
"Healthy nails should be firm. They should not be soft. They should be shiny. They can have some lines in them, but they should generally be very smooth," says dermatologist Dr. Shari Lipner.

Caring for our fingernails and toenails is often an afterthought, says professional nail technician Titilayo Bankole. Many of us don't think of maintaining our nails the way we do our teeth and hair.

But they deserve more attention (and not just in the form of fun nail art), she says. Our nails are essential to our daily lives.

"If you lose a nail, try picking up a coin off the floor. Try buttoning your shirt. It's almost impossible to do," says Dr. Shari Lipner, a professor of clinical dermatology and director of the nail division at Weill Cornell Medical Center.

To keep your nails healthy and strong, practice good hygiene habits and examine your nails on a regular basis, says Bankole. Many people damage their nails by picking at their cuticles, for example, or drying them out by overexposing them to water.

Failing to care for your nails correctly could lead to brittle nail beds, painful hangnails and issues that extend beyond your fingers and toes. An untreated fungal infection in your nails, for instance, can be highly contagious and spread to other parts of your skin, says Lipner.

Here are seven healthy nail habits to weave into your body care routine. 

No trimming, biting or picking at your cuticles! 

"So many people want to trim their cuticles, push their cuticles, take away their cuticles. We need to understand why we have cuticles in the first place," says Lipner.

Your cuticle is an important protective barrier made up of a thin, sticky layer of clear, dead skin cells at the base of your nail. It stops bacteria or fungus, dirt and debris from getting under your skin and interfering with nail growth. So removing it can leave your nail open to infection, says dermatologist and nail specialist Dr. Dana Stern.

If you have to manage them, Stern recommends gently pushing your cuticles back with a washcloth after taking a shower or bath to soften the skin. That will keep your nails looking neat and clean without ripping away the protective barrier.

If you've got a hangnail, often a result of the skin around your cuticles getting too dry and snagging on something — use nail clippers or nail scissors to nip them at the base right away. Other than that, put the tools away, and ask your nail tech to do the same.

Clip straight across your nail 

Instead of cutting your nails in an oval shape, cut them straight across to avoid an ingrown nail, which is when the nail curves and grows into your skin. If you cut your nail in a curve, it's more likely to grow the wrong way.

Then, even out the sharp edges with a glass or crystal nail file. Unlike cardboard emery files, which can lead to breaks, splits and peeling in the nail, glass or crystal files create a perfectly sealed, smooth edge to the nail, Stern says.

And if you're biting your nails, really do try to get out of that habit, says Lipner. It can lead to a host of problems like bacterial or fungal infections and nail discoloration — and it can even spread warts from your hands to other parts of your body.

Go easy on the buffing 

Some people also like to buff their nails after cutting, and a light buff can promote healthy growth and increase shine. That's fine, says Stern, but be gentle and sparing — overdoing it can thin out and weaken your nail plate, the hard, visible part of the nail.

Keep your nails and hands moisturized

Moisturizing your nails and the surrounding skin can prevent dryness and cracks, preserving them as a protective barrier.

Use cuticle oil to hydrate your nails and cuticles, says Bankole. She prefers a combination of grapeseed oil and vitamin E for their antioxidant properties, lemongrass as an astringent and jojoba oil for nourishing and moisturizing the nails and skin. But any skin-safe oil, even olive oil, can provide adequate hydration in a pinch, says Stern.

For your hands, opt for a moisturizing cream. It is generally thicker and has a higher oil content than lotion, meaning it can hydrate and protect your digits for longer, says Bankole.

Check your nails for any color or textural changes in between manicure and pedicure appointments. If you see green spots, dark lines, cracks, divots or excessive ridges, talk to your dermatologist.
/ FXQuadro/Getty Images
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FXQuadro/Getty Images
Check your nails for any color or textural changes in between manicure and pedicure appointments. If you see green spots, dark lines, cracks, divots or excessive ridges, talk to your dermatologist.

Take a break from manicures and pedicures 

Manicures can be tough on nails. Acetone-based polish removers can cause brittleness with frequent use. Constantly wearing nail polish on your toenails can stain them. And hard gels or heavy acrylics can potentially weaken or damage your nails, especially over long periods of time.

So just like you want to wash off your makeup and let your skin breathe at the end of the night, Stern says you should consider taking a break from the acrylics and the gels now and then to let your natural nails breathe.

At the very least, check your naked nails in between appointments, and look out for any color or textural changes. Healthy nails don't usually have green spots, dark lines, cracks, divots or excessive ridges, says Lipner. Those could all be signs to take a break and talk to your dermatologist.

Wear gloves to protect your nails from excess moisture 

"The nail is a thousand times more absorptive of water than the skin," Stern says. "They're essentially like little sponges."

Forcing your nail cells to expand and contract with repeated water exposure can lead to weakness and breakage, says Stern — so consider wearing gloves for tasks where your hands get wet and stay wet, like dishwashing or gardening.

Remember: nail health is health

Your nails can be a window to your overall health, Stern says. For example, whitish nails might indicate a vitamin deficiency or liver disease. You can get harmless moles under your nails just like you can on your skin, but it's also possible to get nail cancer.

If you notice any odd, big or lasting changes in your nails, bring them to your primary care doctor or your dermatologist at your annual skin check.

"And when you do, make sure to remove all of the polish, acrylics and gels from your fingernails and toenails, because your nails are a very important part of that exam as well," Stern says.


The story was edited by Malaka Gharib. We'd love to hear from you. Leave us a voicemail at 202-216-9823, or email us at LifeKit@npr.org.

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Andee Tagle (she/her) is an associate producer and now-and-then host for NPR's Life Kit podcast.
Mika Ellison